UK getaway plus…
London, Edinburgh Sat 03 Aug – Thu 03 Oct
Been looking forward to this one for ages. The summary is a trip to see Edinburgh Tattoo, visit Provence in France, Basel in Switzerland, lake como and cinque terra in Italy, and circumnavigating England and Scotland.
Day 1 – Day one, in transit..
London Saturday, 3 August 2013
Well this trip has been a long one in the planning. Contrary to opinion I haven’t really had a holiday since last August. I did have some time off in February but was sick the whole 2 weeks so I’m not counting that one.
I packed rather light, put everything out, ate tea, then put half away.
Sharky made it to the airport in record time as the traffic was very quiet, and so was the airport.
It was a lovely flight up to Sydney. Rivers and dams full and sparkling in the sun, almost blinding me actually as I had a sunny window seat looking out at The Great Divide.
Once in Sydney by the time I caught the bus to the International Airport and did my duty free shopping it was straight to the gate, no lounging around.
The view from the air as we crossed over Australia was fabulous. I have seen it before but it is so vast, the red desert, escarpments and ravines, long sandy windrows, salty lakes, and huge rocky outcrops.
Having a flat bed seat was great, and I was looking forward to a good sleep.
Well one on our way my lunch was rather indulgent…king prawn salad, eye fillet of beef with vegetables, molten chocolate pudding with fresh raspberries. I watched “Life of Pi” and had several hours sleep. I then watched “The Great Gatsby” had a drink and sandwich at the bar, and another few hours sleep. We were served breakfast and then spent 2 hours in the first class lounge at Abu Dhabi. Had a chance to shower then back on the Ethiad plane to London.
The bed was very comfy and I slept some more, watched a movie and was served breakfast again. Yoghurt and muesli with fresh fruit, and brioche with berries and clotted cream.
As the sun came up I enjoyed crossing Europe as we could see quite a bit. Left the continent between Bruges and Amsterdam I estimated, and as we crossed the English Chanel could see the wind farms in the sea.
Flew straight over Greenwich and along the Thames to London, and was so lucky the plane had to do a big turn back to Heathrow right above the city. Parliament House, Big Ben, London Eye, Westminster abbey, Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, Hyde park. Sensational view.
Day 2
London Sunday, 4 August 2013
Arrived around 0730 and took a while getting through customs. It was really slow. After I located my bag I quickly found the driver and limo to get to the hotel which is in a great spot only 100m from Euston Station. When I was booking all this 6 months ago off a map I stressed over some of the locations etc, but I can see euston station from the hotel.
It was far too early to check in, and a bad day to to go into central London as there was a huge cycle race on with half streets blocked so I walked through Russell park and on to the British Museum. I wandered about mainly looking at the British collection in the Kings reading room in which I was surprised to find quite a bit about Joseph Banks and captain Cook and saw lots of the specimens they collected. Included was a platypus and many shells, all beautifully documented in very neat handwriting.
I slowly walked home after 4 hours and my feet were very, very sore. Time to get comfy shoes out of the luggage.
When I got settled I jumped on the tube to Leicester square and went to the National Portrait Gallery. It was really interesting and included portraits of Catherine, Maggie Smith, Germaine Greer and loads of others. BP sponsor an annual prize and all the competitors for this year were hanging and they were extremely impressive. The exhibition opens in June each year and runs until September. First prize is typically £30,000. In the early years of the century, the prize went up from £5,000, and its catchment area was gradually extended from residents of the UK and is now unrestricted. The BP Portrait Award shows the very best in contemporary portrait painting from around the world. Some people prefer abstract to realism, and there was a variety of styles, but I was knocked out by a few that would have easily passed for a beautiful photograph but were actually oil or acrylic on canvas. After a while there I had a bite to eat and found myself at Piccadilly theatre to see “Dirty Dancing! I really enjoyed but was getting sleepy near the end.
When I came out of the theatre and made my way up to the square again their were lots of buskers, food smells, happy people enjoying the summer evening.
It was back to the tube and found my way home OK. I’m glad I occasionally use public transport as one is always a little unsure in another country, coupled with the experience jane and I had spending the day in the underground in Moscow, and Maria a friend in UK who took us down there a couple of years ago. It’s different when you’re doing it on your own but plenty of people around to ask-just have to pick the right person as there seem to be plenty of foreigners here on holiday.
Day 3 – Zoo day
London Monday, 5 August 2013
Today I decided to venture where I hadn’t been before, so headed off with plans to walk around Regents Park, and see some of gardens there.
I was originally going to have breakfast in the park but it was a bit late so decided to try food from a “pret a manger”. I had a nice bowl of porridge, juice and a coffee which was $10.00.
I ate my breakfast while people watching at Euston Station. There is a statue there of Robert Louis Stevenson. I wondered whet he would think to be immortalized in that busy station plaza with commuters going every which way and tossing the odd cigarette but at his feet.
On the underground you have to work your way from one line to another but I think I chose the shortest route. As I was about to cross the road to the park I asked directions from a lady and she said she walked in the park every day and invited me to join her. We set a cracking pace, and after a few kms when I decided to head a different direction she said “gosh you walk fast”. I said I was just keeping up to you but she insisted no one ever keeps up to her. Well I had sore feet still from the boots yesterday, and the way she took me I had to cross regents park again completely, and then go on even further to the entrance which was relocated for maintenance. Walked for miles!
The park has several gardens and a lake, and the centre of it has many playing fields.
At the zoo I looked at the aquarium, gorillas, giraffes, and a few other animals. It’s not a patch on the Melbourne zoo as far as I was concerned.
The choice of getting home included a canal boat ride to goodness knows where, so I jumped on and for £5.00 about $9.00 had a nice ride for 35 minutes to an area known as little Venice. There was probably 50 boats or so that people live on permanently. Every 10 years they go into dry dock to be anti fouled.
Sewerage is all pumped onto a boat that comes along periodically for that purpose.
When I got to euston square station the rain was teeming down. Conveniently above the station was a restaurant so I ate in there until the rain subsided.
Had 4 hours to kill while waiting for my sleeper train to Edinburgh so the girls at my hotel are happy with me sitting in the foyer before I go. It’s only about 100m and I can get on the train about 11 pm.
It’s a 7 hour journey and I have booked a private sleeper compartment with an en suite. I think I will be sleeping all the way!
Day 4 – Fringe festival
Edinburgh Tuesday, 6 August 2013
Had a fabulous sleep on the train. I was already asleep for about half an hour before the train left London, and I woke up briefly around 4am. At 0630 our breakfast was delivered to our doors, which gave me an hour to get ready for Edinburgh. The room was smallish, but had a comfy bed with a nice Doona already made up, a tartan blanket should it be needed, and a modern washbasin (no en suite) apparently the shower facility was back on the station.
I knew I was many hours too early for the hotel. When I booked to stay at the Hilton last year I booked a single room for £67 per night $201.00 for the three nights at the time I thought I had a bargain. Particularly as it was the fringe festival and the Edinburgh tattoo time.
I asked at reception if I could store my luggage, and she said “we’ve just acquired an apartment building across the road, if you don’t mind staying there you could check in straight away and we will throw in breakfast”. I didn’t really care where I stayed but took up the offer which meant I could go to the room straight away. When I got there it was a huge room, a suite really, beautifully appointed, writing desk, gorgeous seating, etc etc. looks like it has just been fully renovated. New carpet,bathroom, furniture, curtains etc
I thought I might have a quiet day, so had a short sleep and a shower, but it got the better of me and I went out for what turned into a 7 hour walk.
In London I was still a little concerned about wearing a backpack after being pick pocketed two years ago, but it is really difficult carrying both a handbag and a camera case. I decluttered. Backpack, one camera, one bottle water, one umbrella, and my travel wallet…chained to the inside of my backpack…if they want it they have to get the whole backpack off me first. Anyway it was a much easier and sensible way to go. Thank you Sharky for the new backpack as it is really easy access to the camera for me, not so easy for anyone else due to the design.
Princess Street is a main long shopping street on one side, and gardens and older buildings looking towards the castle on the other. I ate lunch at a tiny pub in Rose Street which is a gorgeous street with lots if eateries. I found myself in the Public area of the National Gallery. They currently had on loan some Raphael and Botticelli, and many other depictions of baby Christ, Herod, Cupid, and a really good self portrait of Rembrandt his age around 62 I think.
Well I was going to apply the Tommy Hafey rules for the holiday, he has had no cake biscuit or lolly for 40 years, but I don’t think he mentioned scones jam and cream! (Frank I have to keep tasting for the sake of the international scone standard for the Barrie’s)
As I walked (slowly) I ended up at Edinburgh castle, passing by heaps and heaps of tourist shops full of Scottish wares, from socks to hats, jocks to blankets, baby shoes to kilts, cup and saucers to egg cups, umbrellas and condoms. You can get anything here with tartan on from cheap acrylic to the most expensive cashmere.
All along the way were street performers, musical, theatrical and comical. The first musical act I saw was an Australian guitarist who was very very good. I also went into the large Cathedral St Giles which is very beautiful inside.
I walked into the arena where the tattoo concert takes place, and even saw where my seat will be on Thursday night.
I’m not going to do the castle tour until next month when Wayne arrives.
I had a few large cups of tea on my walk, and maybe a vodka, and according to my map I could descend from the castle the opposite to the way I ascended. Well this was true but I took a slight wrong turn and ended up in Grassmarket, like a plaza in front of some gorgeous pubs, where I found a seat in front of some of the festival acts. It was a stupid act really but it was nice to sit down and rest my aching feet.
I started to try and find my way and walk back to the hotel, as I had a map, and stupidly asked a parking officer if I was going the right way. He said oh no you have to go down there around there etc etc….luckily I followed my own directions, with some trepidation, but soon it was clear I knew where to go and he didn’t!
I decided to eat in, and had a delicious meal of baked salmon on wasabi mash with beans and lemon grass cream, creme brûlée and a shortbread biscuit. Watched TV.
Day 5 – Garden day.
Edinburgh Wednesday, 7 August 2013
Just walked into my room, can’t believe I said phwoarrr to myself out loud.
This morning after a light breakfast decided I would walk to the botanical gardens. I just got one block down the road and went in to St.Marys Catholic Church for a look. It is a beautiful looking building from the outside. Gothic style. Well inside didn’t disappoint either. Out the front was an advertisement for some famous guy who will be playing concerts in the church. There he was having a practice and I was the only audience. His playing was outstanding, very lively and loud filling the church to every corner.
I then stepped out for the gardens. Goodness me it was a good mile or two. The streets are so close together I walked further than I needed as well. After several different passers by giving directions-some more helpful than others, and a large coffee in a small local shop, and a good walk across a huge park, I made it. On the way I also passed a large area where it seems you can have your own vege plot, and there were loads of small plots each with a little shed or greenhouse all in a fenced community area.
The Edinburgh gardens are huge and beautiful. I didn’t get to see it all but what I saw was lovely. I started out passing cottage flower beds which were very pretty with lots of bumble bees. Cornflowers, daisies, verbenas, rock roses, pansies, hibiscus, hydrangea, just too many to mention. There were also many vegetables growing amongst the flowers beds kale, cabbages, zucchini, beans to name a few. Huge hedges, many old trees. And I will mention again, many many old big and lovely trees. Well manicured lawns, conifers and deciduous, ponds, rock gardens, Chinese gardens, families enjoying the gorgeous weather on their holidays.
I walked through a treed archway into a small symmetrical garden which has been planted in memory of the queen mother. At one end of the area was a small building, Italian type of building about the size of a large garden shed. Inside the walls were totally adorned with shells, all in a pattern. Mostly scallop and mussel shells, and the ceiling was also a symmetrical design, but made from dried conifer seeds. It was a work of art. It reminded me of a small shell cave in the front garden at the Werribee Mansion if anyone has ever been there. Anyway there was another woman in there on her own and we started to chat. She had recently been diagnosed with breast cancer and had to come to Edinburgh for radiotherapy. One thing led to another and I found out her sister lives is Somerville, and used to work at Frankston Hospital. She let me take her photo in the hope I might meet her sister when I get home. Small world eh….
In the centre of the gardens was an old Georgian style 3 story building now used for exhibitions. I’m not much into modern art but had a look around, not impressed even if they were meant to be some famous exhibition. Also was a garden terrace cafe, and a puppet show. I went to the puppet show which was in a tiny bonwood caravan. We were each given a cardboard fan in case it was stuffy, and paid £3 to watch a silly little one man puppet shoe about a weasel in love. Only 6 of us fitted inside the caravan. Oh we’ll ill try anything once!
In another corner of the gardens are 10 large glass houses which you pay to walk through. Each glass house is dedicated to a climate of plant. There were rainforest, cool climate, water gardens, orchids, cycads, loads of palms and ferns.
Very worth the £5.
I had only seen half the garden at this stage, but it had taken several hours to see this much and I wanted to see some more of the fringe festival.
Once again acts all over the streets and loads of people out and about on this lovely day. I booked a ticket and went and saw a South African Interactive drum concert which also featured Wendy Oldfield who sang beautifully. The concert was lively and fun. It was some story, some singing, some audience participation. We were each given a drum and had to join in when prompted. All the performers were bright and bubbly. The leading lady was a large girl, with the most beautiful smiling character. She was a big girl, or as the south South Africans say a sisi. Her bum and legs were enormous and she wore really tight leggings to the knee, and a beaded skirt that did not cover any of her behind which was cellulite city under those leggings. She said to her male colleague “tell me, does my bum look big in this” and she turned side on and could move her butt up and down with the rest of her stationary. She was very entertaining, and no – he didn’t dare tell her that her butt was big in that!
I walked from the royal mile back down to George st where there were lots of festivities and bars set up like the Guinness tent at the port fairy folkie, but I couldn’t find the act I was intending to watch and got a cab the last mile home
The receptionist is finding me a place where I can have a massage tomorrow. It’s not the distance I’m walking but the rough surfaces and stones
louspix 